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drain slow fixture slowz, hints from a home inspector

Fixture drain slow clogged : drain pipes are not under pressure and depend entirely on gravity to carry away wastes. Because of this, it really doesn't take much to cause a slow or clogged drain. In the case of a bathroom sink or tub, usually the problem is caused by an accumulation of soap and hair. In kitchen or laundry sinks, chances are the blockage is caused by soap, grease, or food particles congealed in the drain. In either case it is wise to check the drain opening inside the sink to see if it is clogged with hair or other solid material. In bathroom sinks there is usually a "pop-up" metal stopper which closes the drain when a handle behind the faucet is pulled up or pushed down. Usually this kind can be removed and cleaned by raising the stopper as high as possible and TWIsting the stopper about a half turn to disengage it from the connection arm. Lift it straight up to clean and inspect it. It may be necessary to take the linkage apart under the sink and remove the horizontal rod from the sink drain "tail piece". If the blockage is not in the drain opening then it is either in the trap or farther down the drain. If drains are slow in more than one fixture, the trouble is probably in one of the large drains or in a main vent stack. If fixtures make "gurgling" or bubbling sounds as they drain, and drain slowly, there is a good chance that the vent pipe going up through the roof is clogged, or at least, partially blocked. When air being pushed down the drain lines by the water entering the drain, cannot escape freely up the vertical vent stacks, drainage will be slow. In many cases the simplest way to unclog a blocked stack is to go up on the roof and shove a garden hose down in the stack and turn the water on full force for a while. Have someone inside watching the drains in case the water starts to back up. If this doesn't free up the blockage, try running a long "plumbers" snake down into the stack (especially if the water backed up and ran out the stack). If these measures fail, you may have to remove one of the clean-out plugs in the main drain lines. Newer buildings have clean-outs at each fixture, except toilets which have to be lifted off the floor. To remove the cleanout plug may require a large wrench and plenty of muscle. Running the "plumbers snake" or power auger (which you can rent at equipment rental agencies) down into this opening will usually solve the problem. Be prepared for a small flood of dirty water when you remove the cap or plug. There may be a lot of water in the lines behind the clean-out, especially in two story houses. Use of caustic chemicals often helps, but great care must be taken when using these chemicals since they may still be present when you work on the lines in other ways. Use of a rubber "force cup" or "plunger" also may help. Although the plunger is a simple tool, there are some "tricks of the trade" that will make it more effective. First, there should be enough water in the sink bottom to create a water seal and make it more effective. It may be a good idea to "smear" a small amount of petroleum jelly around the cup bottom to help ensure a good seal. Make sure the overflow drain is stuffed with a wet cloth or pressure will be lost. If the sink is half of a double sink and shares a drain with the other half, make sure that the other sink drain is plugged solidly, otherwise you would be forcing water from one sink to the other. After you press the rim of the plunger cup down over the drain opening, push up and down vigorously several times without lifting the cup off the bottom of the sink. The upward stroke creates a vacuum, or suction effect, in the drain that is often even more effective than the downward compression stroke. Put extra effort into the lifting action by practically "yanking" on the plunger handle. If the clog doesn't break loose on the first few tries, don't be discouraged. Try several times. It may take five or ten, five stroke series to do any good. This technique with a plunger also works with toilets. If the toilet refuses to cooperate, use of a special "toilet auger" may be necessary. These are available at all home improvement stores. If you cannot perform any of these operations on your own, it is recommended you contact a plumbing contractor for further assistance. Dielectric brass intermediary couplings
Water hammer or pipe rattle
Plastic water pipe exposed inside building footprint
Water pipes exposed to freeze (plastic metallic): water pipes can burst if exposed to hard freezes
. discolored water
. Gas valve to any appliance not installed
Cap or plug needed on open gas valve or pipe
Hose bib sprinkler system main line back flow prevention

File last updated May 22, 2012 * Copyright © 2012 All rights reserved by: Accurate Inspections, Inc. A New Jersey home inspection firm 56 Woodland Drive, Woodland Park (formerly West Paterson) NJ 07424 973-812-5100 providing New Jersey Certified Home Inspections in NJ, by New Jersey Licensed home inspectors. Inspector of record Michael Del Greco, New Jersey Home Inspector License GI 0121.

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drain slow fixture slowz, hints from Licensed New Jersey home inspectors who performs home inspections in NJ