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New Jersey
home inspection NJ home
inspectors perform
Certified New Jersey home
inspections in NJ.
FLUSH
MECHANISM PARTS DAMAGED / MISSING / AMISS
(bidet or water closet): An improperly adjusted
float or one which is water logged will either
overfill a water closet tank or will allow water
to run over the overflow tube until someone
takes the time to stop it. The inner workings of
a typical water closet flush tank may seem like
a complicated series of levers and valves, but
once you understand the basic operating
principle, there is nothing mysterious about it
and there is very little that you cannot fix
yourself when a tank fails to flush properly.
The flush mechanism in a typical water closet
tank consists of two separate valve assemblies:
an inlet valve which fills the tank with water
immediately after it is emptied in order to get
it ready for the next flush, and a flush valve
which lets the water go rushing out into the
bowl when you press the lever on the outside of
the tank. The inlet valve mechanism is called
the ball-cock. It refills the tank and adds some
extra water to the bowl itself by means of a
small tube running into the overflow tube
itself, so there will always be some standing in
the bowl. The ball-cock is activated by the
dropping water level as the tank empties, and it
shuts itself off when the water level inside the
tank rises up to a preset level. This level is
determined by a float ball carried upward by the
rising water, thus raising the float arm with
it. The arm is attached to the inlet valve
mechanism and serves to shut it off completely
when the float ball reaches the proper level.
Some models do not have a float ball. Instead
there may be a plastic float attached directly
to the ball-cock tube which rises with the
water. In other models the float is replaced
altogether by a pressure-sensitive valve at the
bottom which senses the water level inside the
tank and shuts off the inlet valve mechanism
when the proper level is reached. The flush
valve is activated by the lever or handle on the
outside of the tank. Pushing down on the lever
raises the trip lever arm on the inside and this
in turn pulls up on the rod connected to the
tank ball on the bottom of the tank. As this
tank ball comes up off its seat on the bottom of
the tank, the water inside the tank rushes out
through the opening at the bottom and into the
water closet bowl. Simultaneously, the tank ball
floats up to the surface, then drops with the
water level until it finally falls back into its
original position over the seat opening at the
bottom of the tank. Incoming water then builds
up pressure on the ball, serving to hold it down
and keep the seat opening closed while the tank
refills. Instead of lift rods and a tank ball,
most of the newer flush tanks have a chain
connected to a flapper-type valve which fits
over the seat instead of a tank ball and is
hinged so that when the trip lever is raised,
the chain lifts the flapper off its seat and
allows the water to rush out and down into the
bowl. The flapper valve stays in the up (open)
position because it floats, but when the tank is
almost empty the flapper automatically drops
back down over its seat to close the opening
again. The rising water holds the valve down and
seals the opening at the bottom until the next
time the water closet is flushed. Perhaps you
now understand more about the workings of a
flush mechanism. Repairs should not be difficult
to make when something goes wrong. First
determine the source of trouble, then make the
needed adjustments, or replace any
malfunctioning parts with new ones. Inexpen-
sive repair parts are available in most every
Hardware Store and Building Supply Outlet.
Usually, float adjustments can be brought about
by simply bending the float arm. In a few cases,
bending the float arm will not solve the problem
of water running out the overflow tube because
the float has developed a leak and is partially
filled with water. As a result it will not float
as high as it should, thus it never fully shuts
off the flow of water. If you suspect this is
the problem, and if manually lifting up the
float arm shuts off the flow of water (so you
know that the ball-cock is working properly),
then unscrew the float from the end of its arm
and shake it while holding it next to your ear.
If there is water inside you will hear it. Throw
the float away and replace it with a new one.
Bidets do not "flush" in the fashion a
water closet flushes but simply allow water to
drain out much like a sink drain. Problems
associated with bidet valves are similar to
faucets and valves of common fixtures. Contact a
Plumbing Contractor or Home Repair Service
should you need assistance with repairs.
SHOWER OR TUB CURTAIN ON ROD
OR TRACK
MASONITE OR FORMICA (PLASTIC LAMINATE) SURROUND
OTHER SURROUND TYPES
NO SPLASH-OUT PROTECTION NOTED
DOWN FLUSH WATER CLOSET OR
BIDET
UP FLUSH WATER CLOSET
BACK FLUSH WATER CLOSET
WALL HUNG WATER CLOSET
STEEL ENAMELED LAVATORY
STAINLESS STEEL LAVATORY
VITREOUS CHINA LAVATORY
LAVATORY-COUNTERTOP MOULDED
AS ONE-PIECE UNIT
LAVATORY LET IN TO TILE OR
OTHER MATERIALS
HOADIE RING
SELF RIMMING LAVATORY /
MOULDED ONE PIECE UNIT
FREE STANDING OR WALL HUNG
LAVATORY
"UNDER-SINK" VALVES
PLASTIC LAMINATE (FORMICA ®)
VANITY TOP OR BACK SPLASH
ACRYLICS (CORIAN®) / GRANITE
/ MARBLE / OTHER VANITY TOP MATERIALS
WINDOW
EXHAUST FAN
NON-MECHANICAL VENT
CEILING HEAT LAMP
ELECTRIC CEILING OR WALL
HEATER
NO VENTILATION NOTED
CARPETED BATHROOM FLOOR
CERAMIC TILE OR MARBLE
BATHROOM FLOOR CERAMIC TILE
VINYL BATHROOM FLOORS COVED
VINYL
WOOD OR CORK BATHROOM FLOORS
TERRAZZO OR SLATE BATHROOM
FLOORS TERRAZZO
WOOD SUBFLOOR
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