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FLUSH MECHANISM PARTS DAMAGED / MISSING / AMISS (bidet or water closet): An improperly adjusted float or one which is water logged will either overfill a water closet tank or will allow water to run over the overflow tube until someone takes the time to stop it. The inner workings of a typical water closet flush tank may seem like a complicated series of levers and valves, but once you understand the basic operating principle, there is nothing mysterious about it and there is very little that you cannot fix yourself when a tank fails to flush properly. The flush mechanism in a typical water closet tank consists of two separate valve assemblies: an inlet valve which fills the tank with water immediately after it is emptied in order to get it ready for the next flush, and a flush valve which lets the water go rushing out into the bowl when you press the lever on the outside of the tank. The inlet valve mechanism is called the ball-cock. It refills the tank and adds some extra water to the bowl itself by means of a small tube running into the overflow tube itself, so there will always be some standing in the bowl. The ball-cock is activated by the dropping water level as the tank empties, and it shuts itself off when the water level inside the tank rises up to a preset level. This level is determined by a float ball carried upward by the rising water, thus raising the float arm with it. The arm is attached to the inlet valve mechanism and serves to shut it off completely when the float ball reaches the proper level. Some models do not have a float ball. Instead there may be a plastic float attached directly to the ball-cock tube which rises with the water. In other models the float is replaced altogether by a pressure-sensitive valve at the bottom which senses the water level inside the tank and shuts off the inlet valve mechanism when the proper level is reached. The flush valve is activated by the lever or handle on the outside of the tank. Pushing down on the lever raises the trip lever arm on the inside and this in turn pulls up on the rod connected to the tank ball on the bottom of the tank. As this tank ball comes up off its seat on the bottom of the tank, the water inside the tank rushes out through the opening at the bottom and into the water closet bowl. Simultaneously, the tank ball floats up to the surface, then drops with the water level until it finally falls back into its original position over the seat opening at the bottom of the tank. Incoming water then builds up pressure on the ball, serving to hold it down and keep the seat opening closed while the tank refills. Instead of lift rods and a tank ball, most of the newer flush tanks have a chain connected to a flapper-type valve which fits over the seat instead of a tank ball and is hinged so that when the trip lever is raised, the chain lifts the flapper off its seat and allows the water to rush out and down into the bowl. The flapper valve stays in the up (open) position because it floats, but when the tank is almost empty the flapper automatically drops back down over its seat to close the opening again. The rising water holds the valve down and seals the opening at the bottom until the next time the water closet is flushed. Perhaps you now understand more about the workings of a flush mechanism. Repairs should not be difficult to make when something goes wrong. First determine the source of trouble, then make the needed adjustments, or replace any malfunctioning parts with new ones. Inexpen- sive repair parts are available in most every Hardware Store and Building Supply Outlet. Usually, float adjustments can be brought about by simply bending the float arm. In a few cases, bending the float arm will not solve the problem of water running out the overflow tube because the float has developed a leak and is partially filled with water. As a result it will not float as high as it should, thus it never fully shuts off the flow of water. If you suspect this is the problem, and if manually lifting up the float arm shuts off the flow of water (so you know that the ball-cock is working properly), then unscrew the float from the end of its arm and shake it while holding it next to your ear. If there is water inside you will hear it. Throw the float away and replace it with a new one. Bidets do not "flush" in the fashion a water closet flushes but simply allow water to drain out much like a sink drain. Problems associated with bidet valves are similar to faucets and valves of common fixtures. Contact a Plumbing Contractor or Home Repair Service should you need assistance with repairs.

 


SHOWER OR TUB CURTAIN ON ROD OR TRACK
MASONITE OR FORMICA (PLASTIC LAMINATE) SURROUND
OTHER SURROUND TYPES
NO SPLASH-OUT PROTECTION NOTED
DOWN FLUSH WATER CLOSET OR BIDET
UP FLUSH WATER CLOSET
BACK FLUSH WATER CLOSET
WALL HUNG WATER CLOSET
STEEL ENAMELED LAVATORY
STAINLESS STEEL LAVATORY
VITREOUS CHINA LAVATORY
LAVATORY-COUNTERTOP MOULDED AS ONE-PIECE UNIT
LAVATORY LET IN TO TILE OR OTHER MATERIALS
HOADIE RING
SELF RIMMING LAVATORY / MOULDED ONE PIECE UNIT
FREE STANDING OR WALL HUNG LAVATORY
"UNDER-SINK" VALVES
PLASTIC LAMINATE (FORMICA ®) VANITY TOP OR BACK SPLASH
ACRYLICS (CORIAN®) / GRANITE / MARBLE / OTHER VANITY TOP MATERIALS
WINDOW 
EXHAUST FAN
NON-MECHANICAL VENT
CEILING HEAT LAMP
ELECTRIC CEILING OR WALL HEATER
NO VENTILATION NOTED
CARPETED BATHROOM FLOOR
CERAMIC TILE OR MARBLE BATHROOM FLOOR
CERAMIC TILE
VINYL BATHROOM FLOORS
COVED VINYL

WOOD OR CORK BATHROOM FLOORS
TERRAZZO OR SLATE BATHROOM FLOORS
TERRAZZO

WOOD SUBFLOOR


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This file was last updated on Wednesday, 27-Feb-2008 10:32:01 EST * Copyright © 2008 All rights reserved by: Accurate Inspections, Inc. A New Jersey home inspection firm providing New Jersey Certified Home Inspections in NJ, by New Jersey Licensed home inspectors. Inspector of record Michael Del Greco, New Jersey Home Inspector License GI 0121.

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