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TOILET WATER CLOSET OR BIDET BOWL LOOSE ON FLOOR (caulk / reset): A loose water closet or bidet may leak or it may crack around the base. Either condition can lead to a major problem. Leaking water closets or bidets may cause rot to wood subfloors, walls, flooring, etc. In multi-storied buildings the situation can worsen if the leak damages the ceilings below. Secure the fixture to the floor as soon as possible. If the inspector indicated "caulk" possibly caulking to the floor is all that is needed. If the floor is concrete this may be an acceptable method of repair since nothing is below the concrete which can be damaged, such as wood subfloors or ceilings. See if the inspector checked 67f (wood subfloor). Caulk should be applied to the fixture bowl base where it meets the flooring material. If you have wood floors you should leave a small gap at the back side of the bowl which is not caulked. The reason for this is so water will be visible to you (should a leak occur) before it damages the wood subfloor. One of the major reasons for caulking a water closet or bidet bowl to a floor is to stabilize and secure the unit. See 6700 for additional information regarding caulking in general.



If leaking is noted around the base of the fixture or if the fixture slides side to side, a new wax seal may have to be installed. In this case the inspector may have indicated the word "reset." Replacing the seal will require removal of the fixture. One effective method of replacing the seal is as follows. Turn the water off to the fixture and disconnect the water supply line. Flush all water from the tank then force any remaining water from the bowl with a water closet plunger. Remove the hold-down nuts or bolts from the fixture base then lift the unit onto a strong five gallon can, preferably a plastic one. Have someone hold the fixture in place on the can. Reach under the fixture and remove the old wax seal. Sometimes it will remain on the closet flange (the pipe in the floor) and reaching under will not be necessary. After complete removal of the old wax seal replace with a new one on the closet flange. If a type of flooring has been installed which lifts the fixture from its original setting atop the flange, such as ceramic tile, you may need to stack two wax seals, one atop the other. Carefully lift the fixture from the can and set it onto the new seal making sure the bolts come up through the attachment holes in the base of the unit. The bowl will not immediately seat, especially in cold weather. Pressure will be needed to "squeeze" the wax into the new position. Some people sit on water closets backward and slightly rock side to side to effect proper seating of the bowl. When tightening the bolts and/or nuts which fasten the bowl to the floor, be careful to not overtighten them as this may crack the base of the bowl. If this happens, the bowl is ruined and must be replaced. Tighten the nuts or bolts a little at a time, possibly over a period of several days. After the bowl is properly seated you should apply caulk around the base of the bowl. Contact a Plumbing Contractor for assistance if you feel unqualified to perform this repair. 

 


UNEXPECTED REPAIRS AND MAINTENANCE
CAULK TUB / SHOWER ENCLOSURE AT TUB / WALL / PAN / VARIOUS
LOCATIONS

FUNGUS, MOLD OR MILDEW SUSPECTED
CAST IRON TUB / SHOWER PAN
PRESSED STEEL TUB / SHOWER PAN
FIBERGLASS TUB / SHOWER COMBINATION
FIBERGLASS SHOWER PAN (INSERT)
CULTURED MARBLE / ACRYLIC TUB / SHOWER PAN
CERAMIC TILE / MARBLE TUB / SHOWER FLOOR
TERRAZZO SHOWER FLOOR
CONCRETE SHOWER FLOOR
REFINISHED OR REPAINTED TUB OR SHOWER
WASHERLESS FAUCET
WASHER TYPE (COMPRESSION) FAUCET
DIVERTER VALVE
POP-UP STOPPER
DRAIN ACCESS IF SLIP JOINT DRAIN
SAUNA
HYDRO-TUB
STEAMER
OTHER PLUMBING ASSEMBLIES
FLOATED TILE SURROUND 
CONCRETE OR BLOCK TUB / SHOWER SURROUND
DRYWALL / PLASTER TUB / SHOWER SURROUND
FIBERGLASS / PLASTICS
MASTIC TILE SURROUND
CULTURED MARBLE / ACRYLICS (CORIAN ®) / GRANITE / MARBLE
PRESSED STEEL TUB / SHOWER SURROUND
GLASS / PLASTIC TUB / SHOWER DOOR / ENCLOSURE

SHOWER OR TUB CURTAIN ON ROD OR TRACK
MASONITE OR FORMICA (PLASTIC LAMINATE) SURROUND
OTHER SURROUND TYPES
NO SPLASH-OUT PROTECTION NOTED
DOWN FLUSH WATER CLOSET OR BIDET
UP FLUSH WATER CLOSET
BACK FLUSH WATER CLOSET
WALL HUNG WATER CLOSET
STEEL ENAMELED LAVATORY
STAINLESS STEEL LAVATORY
VITREOUS CHINA LAVATORY
LAVATORY-COUNTERTOP MOULDED AS ONE-PIECE UNIT
LAVATORY LET IN TO TILE OR OTHER MATERIALS
HOADIE RING
SELF RIMMING LAVATORY / MOULDED ONE PIECE UNIT
FREE STANDING OR WALL HUNG LAVATORY
"UNDER-SINK" VALVES
PLASTIC LAMINATE (FORMICA ®) VANITY TOP OR BACK SPLASH
ACRYLICS (CORIAN®) / GRANITE / MARBLE / OTHER VANITY TOP MATERIALS
WINDOW 
EXHAUST FAN
NON-MECHANICAL VENT
CEILING HEAT LAMP
ELECTRIC CEILING OR WALL HEATER
NO VENTILATION NOTED
CARPETED BATHROOM FLOOR
CERAMIC TILE OR MARBLE BATHROOM FLOOR
CERAMIC TILE
VINYL BATHROOM FLOORS
COVED VINYL

WOOD OR CORK BATHROOM FLOORS
TERRAZZO OR SLATE BATHROOM FLOORS
TERRAZZO

WOOD SUBFLOOR


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This file was last updated on Thursday, 06-Mar-2008 09:38:14 EST * Copyright © 2008 All rights reserved by: Accurate Inspections, Inc. A New Jersey home inspection firm providing New Jersey Certified Home Inspections in NJ, by New Jersey Licensed home inspectors. Inspector of record Michael Del Greco, New Jersey Home Inspector License GI 0121.

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